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Darran Mountains Rock Climbing Trip (3 or 4 Days)

Days
3

Pricing From
$3335

Difficulty

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Overview

New Zealand’s classic alpine rock climbing mecca, the Darran Mountains offer top-notch rock and magnificent views of the Milford Sound and the Hollyford River below on our Darran Mountains Rock Climbing Trip.

Some of the most challenging routes to be found in the area are “The Bowen Allen Corner”, “The Labyrinth”, and “Lucky Strike”. The Darrans are also a magnet for New Zealand sport climbing.

Shotwell Slabs:

The Shotwell Slabs are located in the upper Hollyford Valley and have easy accessed friction slab climbing which is a great way to warm up to the Darrans style of climbing.

We prefer to climb the link up of Eureka into Tickety Boo. A fun 6 pitch link up with amazing friction moves and great views!

Moirs Mate:

Both the following climbs are approached by the Homer Saddle Traverse which is a long exciting scramble above the Homer tunnel.

Both routes climb to the summit of Moirs Mate!

Bowen Allen Corner:

This Classic route was put up in 1972 and has become the classic route on the Diamond face of Moirs mate. 8 pitches of engaging slab and crack climbing. Great climbing, exciting positions and epic views put this route up there with one of the best moderates in the country! 8 pitches- Grade 17.

Lucky Strike:

This quality route was put up in 2010 and has become a modern classic in the Darran Mountains and is the reason that climbers head out to the west face Moirs Mate. immaculate rock, fun movement and exposure are the hallmarks of this route. 8 pitches- Grade 20

Macpherson-Talbot Traverse:

This day involves hiking to the Homer Saddle and instead of turning south, this time we turn to the north and scramble up "Talbots Ladder" to near the summit of Macpherson. Now a crossing over snow slopes leads to Traverse Pass and down to Gertrude saddle. From the saddle we follow the trail back to Homer hut!

Cleddau Cragging

The Cleddau Valley is the valley that drains into Milford sound. Inside this large glacial valley are three of New Zealand premier sport crags with three different characters!

The Chasm:

The Chasm Crag offers three to four pitch climbs on clean steep diorite with the upper pitches protected from the rain by enormous roofs. Climbing here in a torrential downpour, on dry rock enclosed within sheets of water pouring over roofs in a 70-metre cascade, is a unique experience not to be missed.

Babylon:

Babylon is a huge expanse of orange rock next to the Cleddau river, bolted sport and multi-pitch routes that start off extremely technical and get steeper and more pumpy the higher you go!

Little Babylon:

Perched above Babylon with great views of Miter peak and Milford sound Little Babylon provides one of the most exciting sport climbing experiences in the country. Wildly steep terrain on beautiful red stone. This crag is so steep if offers dry climbing in even the heaviest down poor!

Barrier Knob:

The following route is approached by hiking to Gertrude saddle and then over Barrier Knob to the north face.

Labyrinth:

Labyrinth is THE CLASSIC New Zealand Rock climb! Sustained and bold climbing taking a direct line through steep slabs. Originally climbed and bolted on lead in 1988, it was re-bolted in 2001. This route is worth the trip to New Zealand alone! 5 pitches- Grade 22

Darran Mountains Rock Climbing Trip, Wanaka, New Zealand

Darran Mountains Rock Climbing Trip, Wanaka, New Zealand

Darran Mountains Rock Climbing Trip, Wanaka, New Zealand

Darran Mountains Rock Climbing Trip, Wanaka, New Zealand

Itinerary

Open All
Day 1Wanaka to NZAC Homer Hut
  • Guests meet their guide at the Wanaka Rock Climbing office.
  • Drive to NZAC Homer hut.
  • Climb a 7 pitch route on the Shotwell slabs.
Day 2Classic Climbing Day
  • Hike to the Homer Saddle and traverse to the base of Moirs Mate
  • Climb one of the Classics like "lucky strike" or "The Bowen Allen corner"
Day 3Macpherson-Talbot Traverse
  • Complete the Macpherson-Talbot traverse, A fun day of scrambling, snow travel and epic alpine views.
  • Drive back to Wanaka.
Day 4Optional 4th day

This day generally includes a day of Sport climbing at the “Chasm” or “Babylon” but can also be adjusted to fit in another day of alpine rock climbing on Moirs Mate or the North face of Barrier Knob.

Itinerary

Open All
Day 1Wanaka to NZAC Homer Hut
  • Guests meet their guide at the Wanaka Rock Climbing office.
  • Drive to NZAC Homer hut.
  • Climb a 7 pitch route on the Shotwell slabs.
Day 2Classic Climbing Day
  • Hike to the Homer Saddle and traverse to the base of Moirs Mate
  • Climb one of the Classics like "lucky strike" or "The Bowen Allen corner"
Day 3Macpherson-Talbot Traverse
  • Complete the Macpherson-Talbot traverse, A fun day of scrambling, snow travel and epic alpine views.
  • Drive back to Wanaka.
Day 4Optional 4th day

This day generally includes a day of Sport climbing at the “Chasm” or “Babylon” but can also be adjusted to fit in another day of alpine rock climbing on Moirs Mate or the North face of Barrier Knob.

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