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South Temple Alpine Rock Trip (3 or 4 Days)

Days
3

Pricing From
$2990

Difficulty

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Overview

South Island is home to some of the best quality rock in New Zealand, and South Temple Valley is one of them. Located within the Mackenzie Basin near Lake Ohau, the valley boasts two hidden treasures – the “Weta Prowl” on Steeple Peak, and the “Butterfly Buttress” on Bruce Peak. Getting to the summit ridge requires long but easy ascent on west-facing buttresses composed of red greywacke. The South Temple Alpine Rock Trip is a classic New Zealand climbing adventure featuring camping in a remote alpine meadow. Approach is via the scenic North Temple Valley and Gun-sight Pass which requires a hike of about 5-6 hours before arriving at a campsite in the South Temple Valley.

Although climbing one of the routes will be a big enough achievement for most climbers, there is opportunity to climb both peaks over a day and a half while at camp. Meals are prepared by the guide to let the guests enjoy the area and simply relax.

A six-hour hike via the South Temple Valley takes you back to your vehicle.

Weta Prowl on Steeple Peak:

On this route, ascent is on the right-hand side of the west face. From the base of the buttress, it’s a pleasant six-pitch grade 14 climb before arriving at the top of the face. The summit is reached by about 200m of sheer but exhilarating ridge travel. Descent is by a non-technical rap line.

Butterfly Buttress on Bruce Peak:

This route requires a sustained grade 12-14 climbing on 500m of excellent rock from the base of Bruce Peak to the summit via the prominent southwestern buttress. To return to our campsite, descend via the easy and non-technical Bruce-Steeple Col.

South Temple Alpine Rock Trip, Wanaka, New Zealand

South Temple Alpine Rock Trip, Wanaka, New Zealand

South Temple Alpine Rock Trip, Wanaka, New Zealand

South Temple Alpine Rock Trip, Wanaka, New Zealand

South Temple Alpine Rock Trip, Wanaka, New Zealand

Itinerary

Open All
Day 1Wanaka to Lake Ohau and South Temple Valley
  • Guests meet their guide at the Wanaka Rock Climbing office.
  • Drive to the trailhead near Lake Ohau.
  • Hike into camp in the south temple valley via Gun-sight pass.
Day 2Climb on Bruce Peak
  • Climb "Butterfly Buttress" on Bruce Peak
  • Enjoy the alpine camping in the South Temple Valley
Day 3Climb on Steeple Peak
  • Climb "Weta Prow" on Steeple Peak
  • Walk out to car via South Temple track
  • Drive back to Wanaka

Itinerary

Open All
Day 1Wanaka to Lake Ohau and South Temple Valley
  • Guests meet their guide at the Wanaka Rock Climbing office.
  • Drive to the trailhead near Lake Ohau.
  • Hike into camp in the south temple valley via Gun-sight pass.
Day 2Climb on Bruce Peak
  • Climb "Butterfly Buttress" on Bruce Peak
  • Enjoy the alpine camping in the South Temple Valley
Day 3Climb on Steeple Peak
  • Climb "Weta Prow" on Steeple Peak
  • Walk out to car via South Temple track
  • Drive back to Wanaka

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