Heaphy Track New Zealand: A Great Walk Full of Wild Beauty

The journey from Perry Saddle Hut to Saxon Hut on the Heaphy Track is a remarkable segment of New Zealand's Great Walks. Starting from Perry Saddle Hut, perched at 880 metres, hikers are treated to sweeping views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. As you descend into the Gouland Downs, the landscape opens up to expansive tussock fields, creating a stark yet stunning contrast to the dense forests you leave behind.

Along this section, you’ll traverse the enchanting Gouland Downs, an area known for its unique limestone formations and vibrant birdlife. The track meanders through this open landscape, with gentle undulations making for a pleasant walk. Keep an eye out for the elusive great spotted kiwi, which inhabits these parts, adding a touch of excitement to your journey.

As you approach Saxon Hut, the track leads you through more lush forest and across crystal-clear streams. Saxon Hut itself offers a cosy refuge with beautiful views of the surrounding landscape. This section of the Heaphy Track perfectly encapsulates the diverse and breathtaking scenery that makes New Zealand's Great Walks so renowned.

The stretch from Saxon Hut to James Mackay Hut on the Heaphy Track is a journey through some of New Zealand's most captivating landscapes. Leaving Saxon Hut, the track leads you across the expansive Saxon River flats, where the scenery is dominated by rolling tussock fields and distant mountain vistas. This serene environment offers a peaceful walking experience, with the calls of native birds providing a delightful soundtrack.

As you continue, the track enters lush, beech forest, with towering trees and a rich undergrowth of ferns and mosses. The contrast between the open flats and dense forest highlights the diverse ecosystems you'll encounter on the Heaphy Track. This section is relatively gentle, making it an enjoyable walk as you soak in the tranquillity of the surroundings.

Nearing James Mackay Hut, the landscape opens up once more, offering sweeping views of the Tasman Sea and the mouth of the Heaphy River. Named after James Mackay, an early explorer who mapped much of the area, the hut provides a comfortable and scenic spot to rest. This segment of the track showcases the stunning variety of landscapes that make New Zealand's Great Walks so special, from alpine vistas to coastal panoramas.

The segment from James Mackay Hut to Heaphy Hut on the Heaphy Track is a mesmerizing journey through diverse and stunning landscapes. Departing from James Mackay Hut, the track begins its descent through lush rainforest, where towering podocarps and nikau palms create a dense canopy overhead. The symphony of bird calls and the gentle rustling of leaves add to the serene atmosphere, making this part of the track truly enchanting.

As you progress, the track meanders alongside the Heaphy River, offering glimpses of its crystal-clear waters and serene pools. Swing bridges span the river at various points, adding a touch of adventure to your trek. The river’s banks are adorned with vibrant ferns and mosses, providing a rich tapestry of greenery that is quintessentially New Zealand.

Approaching Heaphy Hut, the landscape transitions to the wild beauty of the West Coast, where the river meets the sea. The hut is situated near the river’s mouth, offering stunning coastal views and the chance to explore the rugged beaches nearby. This final leg of the journey on the Heaphy Track showcases the incredible diversity and natural beauty that make New Zealand's Great Walks so renowned.

The final stretch from Heaphy Hut to Kohaihai Shelter on the Heaphy Track is a spectacular journey along New Zealand's rugged West Coast. Departing from Heaphy Hut, the trail follows the Heaphy River as it winds its way to the sea, offering breathtaking views of the river's mouth and the expansive Tasman Sea. The track hugs the coastline, providing stunning vistas of wild, windswept beaches and dramatic cliffs.

As you walk, you'll encounter the iconic nikau palm groves, which are unique to this region of the country. The lush, tropical vegetation contrasts beautifully with the rugged coastal scenery, creating a striking visual experience. Keep an eye out for native birds like the weka and tūī, which are commonly seen along this part of the track, adding to the natural charm.

Approaching Kohaihai Shelter, the trail passes through picturesque coastal forest and across several swing bridges, offering one last adventure before the journey's end. The Kohaihai River and the shelter mark the conclusion of the Heaphy Track, where you can reflect on the diverse landscapes and unforgettable experiences of your trek. This final segment encapsulates the wild beauty and serene landscapes that make New Zealand's Great Walks so extraordinary.

The Heaphy Track traverses through a variety of ecosystems, each housing its unique array of flora and fauna.

Flora: The trail starts in beech forests, home to various species of New Zealand's native beech trees like red, silver, and mountain beech. As you ascend to the Gouland Downs, you will notice the change from forest to tussock grasslands dotted with subalpine shrubs. Descending towards the Heaphy River, the vegetation becomes more diverse, with lush podocarp forests containing rimu, kahikatea, and totara trees. Nearing the coastline, you will walk through enchanting nikau palm groves and coastal forests with karaka and rata trees.

Fauna: The Heaphy Track provides opportunities to spot a variety of bird species. In the beech forests, keep an ear out for the bellbird/korimako and tui, whose melodic songs are a distinctive sound of New Zealand’s forests. You might also spot bush robins, fantails, and the rare great spotted kiwi/roroa in these areas. The Gouland Downs is known for sightings of the large flightless bird, the takahe. As you approach the coast, look out for Westland petrels soaring in the sky and listen for the call of the nocturnal morepork/owl.

In terms of wildlife, the area is home to various species of invertebrates. Powelliphanta snails, one of the world's largest snails, can be found here. On the coastal sections of the track, you might spot fur seals and, if you are incredibly lucky, even a visiting dolphin or whale out at sea.

Remember, while enjoying these natural wonders, it is important to follow conservation guidelines and respect wildlife. Keep a safe distance, do not feed the animals, and stick to the track to avoid damaging vegetation.

The Heaphy Track holds significant cultural and historical importance, especially for the local Māori tribes, as well as being a popular destination for modern explorers and hikers.

Māori History: The track is named after Charles Heaphy, but its history precedes his exploration. The area was known to Māori people for hundreds of years. Māori tribes like Ngai Tahu and Ngati Waewae used the route for pounamu (greenstone or jade) gathering trips. The track follows ancient walking trails that linked Golden Bay with the West Coast. Various areas along the track, such as Kohaihai, Heaphy River, and Karamea are steeped in Māori lore and tradition.

European History: Charles Heaphy, along with Thomas Brunner and Kehu, their Māori guide, are credited as the first Europeans to traverse the track in 1846 during their exploration of the West Coast. Heaphy was a draughtsman, explorer, and later a soldier, and his sketches of New Zealand landscapes during his travels are invaluable historical records.

Modern Times: The Heaphy Track has seen many changes over the years. It was established as a walking track in 1987 and is now one of the most popular Great Walks of New Zealand. In 2011, it was opened for winter mountain biking (May to September), making it the only Great Walk to allow this activity.

Conservation Efforts: Efforts to protect and conserve the unique environment through which the Heaphy Track passes are a vital part of its modern history. This includes measures to prevent the spread of plant diseases, efforts to protect endangered bird species, and strict regulations on camping and trail use to minimize human impact.

This rich blend of Māori and European history, combined with its natural beauty, contributes to the Heaphy Track's standing as a unique and treasured part of New Zealand's heritage.

While the Heaphy Track itself is a point-to-point trail, there are a few side trips and alternative routes that you can consider enriching your trekking experience.

Cave Creek: Located near the Gouland Downs Hut, Cave Creek is a worthy detour. This is an interesting limestone area with a small cave system that you can explore. It is just a 15-minute walk from the hut. Remember, if you plan to explore the caves, take a headlamp or torch.

Lewis Hut to Heaphy River Mouth: If you have extra time at the Lewis Hut, a side trip to the Heaphy River mouth can be rewarding. It is a beautiful spot and provides a sense of the untouched wilderness and isolation of this part of the New Zealand coast.

Scotts Beach Walk: If you are staying near the Kohaihai end of the track, the Scotts Beach Walk is a terrific way to experience a taste of the Heaphy Track without embarking on the whole multi-day trek. The walk is a 2–3-hour return trip through beautiful coastal forest.

Mount Perry Track: This short side trip, which begins at Perry Saddle Hut, leads you to the top of Mount Perry. The viewpoint at the summit offers an impressive view of Gouland Downs and Aorere Valley.

Remember, when undertaking any side trips, always ensure you have enough time to return before dark and are adequately prepared with essentials like water, food, and suitable clothing. Always let someone know where you are going if you are heading off the main track.

The Heaphy Track is a multi-day hike and requires careful planning and preparation. Here are some key factors to consider:

Fitness Level: While the Heaphy Track is not technically challenging, it is still a long-distance trek. Regular cardio exercise in the months leading up to the hike can help improve stamina. Also, include some strength training for carrying a loaded backpack for several days.

Pack Lightly but Wisely: Pack essentials such as a decent quality sleeping bag, a reliable torch or headlamp, cooking equipment if you plan to prepare your meals, first aid kit, multi-purpose tool, and personal items. Remember, every extra ounce can feel heavy on a long-distance trek, so pack wisely.

Food and Water: Plan your meals in advance. Dehydrated meals are a great option as they are lightweight. Also, carry snacks like energy bars, nuts, and dried fruit. There is drinking water available at the huts, but it is recommended to carry a portable water purifier or treatment tablets just in case.

Clothing and Footwear: Wear layers to adapt to changing temperatures. Include waterproof and windproof clothing. Superior quality, worn-in hiking boots are essential to protect your feet. Do not forget a hat and gloves for cooler evenings.

Navigation: While the track is well-marked, carry a map and compass for safety. A GPS can also be useful.

Know the Weather: Weather can change quickly in New Zealand, especially in mountainous areas. Check the forecast before you leave and be prepared for adverse weather conditions.

Book Huts in Advance: Overnight accommodation on the Heaphy Track is in Department of Conservation (DOC) huts, which need to be booked in advance. During the peak season (October to April), these can fill up quickly.

Safety Plan: Leave your itinerary with a reliable person and check-in with them upon your return. Know the emergency procedures and numbers.

Environmental Care: Adhere to the Leave No Trace principles. Pack out all rubbish, respect wildlife, and use designated areas for camping and toileting.

Remember, every hiker's needs are different, so what works for one person may not work for another. Tailor your preparation to suit your specific needs and consult with experienced hikers or a local hiking organization if you are unsure about anything.

Accommodation on the Heaphy Track consists primarily of huts managed by the New Zealand Department of Conservation (DOC). These huts provide basic facilities such as bunks, toilets, running water, and sometimes cooking facilities. However, you will need to bring your cooking stove, as these facilities can vary or may not always be available. Here are the main huts along the track:

Perry Saddle Hut: Located at an altitude of about 880 meters, Perry Saddle Hut is the first hut on the track when starting from Brown Hut. It has a large sleeping area with 28 bunks.

Saxon Hut: Positioned among tussock grasslands, Saxon Hut is a smaller facility with 16 bunks and is a good stopping point for a break or for the night.

James Mackay Hut: This hut is located atop a hill and offers breathtaking views of the surrounding landscapes. It is a larger hut with 26 bunks.

Lewis Hut: Lewis Hut, located at the confluence of the Lewis and Heaphy Rivers, is a good spot for lunch or rest, but overnight stay is not recommended here as it is close to the larger, better-equipped Heaphy Hut.

Heaphy Hut: Heaphy Hut is the last hut on the track when walking from Brown Hut. It is situated near the mouth of the Heaphy River and is a large facility with 32 bunks.

In terms of camping, there are official campsites at Perry Saddle, Saxon Hut, and Heaphy Hut. Campers must bring their tents but can use the facilities at the huts. Like the huts, campsites must be booked in advance through the DOC during the Great Walks season (late October to late April).

It is important to note that freedom camping (camping outside of designated areas) is not permitted along the Heaphy Track to protect the environment.

At the beginning and end of the track, you will also find accommodation options in nearby towns. Collingwood and Takaka are near the Brown Hut end, and Karamea is close to the Kohaihai end. These towns offer a range of accommodation from backpacker hostels to comfortable B&Bs and hotels.

The Heaphy Track is in the northwestern corner of South Island, New Zealand, and it can be accessed from either end of the track - Brown Hut in the east near Golden Bay, or Kohaihai in the west near Karamea.

To Brown Hut: The closest towns to Brown Hut are Takaka and Collingwood. If you are driving from Nelson, it is about a 2.5-hour journey to reach Takaka. From there, it is another 30 minutes to the start of the track at Brown Hut.

Regular bus services operate from Nelson to Takaka. Once in Takaka, you can arrange a shuttle service or taxi to get to the start of the Heaphy Track. If you are part of a guided tour, transportation is usually arranged by the tour operator.

To Kohaihai: The nearest settlement to Kohaihai is Karamea, which is about 1.5 hour's drive from Westport, and 3 hours from Greymouth. If you are driving from Nelson, it is a significantly longer journey, taking 5-6 hours. The route is incredibly scenic, taking you along the beautiful Buller Gorge and West Coast.

Public transport options are limited to the West Coast. There is a bus service from Westport to Karamea, but it operates on certain days only, so it is essential to check the schedule. From Karamea, a shuttle service can take you to the start/end of the track at Kohaihai.

Remember, if you are doing the hike one way, you will need to arrange transport back to your starting point or have a vehicle relocation service move your car to the end of the track. There are several companies offering these services that you can book in advance.

The best option often depends on your specific travel plans, so it is worth considering all available choices and booking transport well in advance of your trip.

For those doing a guided walk, these start and finish in Nelson.

The Heaphy Track is located in a region of New Zealand that experiences a range of weather conditions throughout the year, which can influence the difficulty and accessibility of the track.

Summer (December - February): This is the most popular time to walk the Heaphy Track, as the weather is typically warm, and the track is usually dry. Average temperatures can range from 20-30 degrees Celsius (68-86 degrees Fahrenheit). However, New Zealand's weather can be unpredictable and can change rapidly, so rain is still possible, and you should be prepared for this.

Autumn (March - May): The weather is stable in the early part of the autumn but can become more unpredictable as winter approaches. Temperatures range from 10-20 degrees Celsius (50-68 degrees Fahrenheit). The track is less busy during these months, offering a more solitary experience.

Winter (June - August): The track is open for hiking, but it is also the time when the track is open for mountain biking. Winter weather can be harsh and unpredictable with snow at higher elevations, especially around Perry Saddle and Gouland Downs. Average temperatures can range from 0-10 degrees Celsius (32-50 degrees Fahrenheit). Ensure you are well-prepared if you plan to undertake the track during winter.

Spring (September - November): This season can be unpredictable with a mix of sunny, rainy, and chilly days. Temperatures range from 10-20 degrees Celsius (50-68 degrees Fahrenheit). Spring can be a wonderful time to see the native flora coming into bloom.

Regardless of the time of year, always check the weather forecast immediately before your trip and prepare for all conditions. The Department of Conservation (DOC) provides regular updates on track conditions, closures, and other critical information for hikers. Remember, your safety is paramount, and you should never hesitate to turn back or change your plans if the weather turns bad.